![]() You might start with the normal exposure as your base layer, then blend in portions of the foreground from the overexposed shot (since the foreground is usually the darkest portion of the picture). For example, you might load the files as layers in Photoshop and blend them together, taking the best parts of each. The second reason to bracket your photos – and really the reason most people do it – is to blend the photos in some manner later. In addition, sometimes you will find you actually like the version that is underexposed or overexposed better. If you (or your camera, in auto mode) get the exposure wrong, one of your bracketed photos can save you. There are two primary reasons for bracketing your photos:įirst, bracketing can serve as a safety net against any exposure problem. The technique is called bracketing because your underexposed and overexposed photos act as a bracket on your normally exposed photo. If your camera allows you to bracket with 5 photos, then you can add photos that are even more underexposed and overexposed. You then take a third photo and purposefully overexpose it. You then take the second photo and purposefully underexpose it. ![]() ![]() You start by taking one picture at normal exposure. This is a photography technique where, instead of taking 1 picture, you take 3 or even 5 pictures of the exact same thing at different exposure levels. This will make the masking in Photoshop much more simple.One of the ways to protect against a potential exposure problem or a dynamic range problem is by bracketing your photos. Tip, If this is your first attempt, I highly recommend shooting a backlit scene with the sun hidden, and very few intrusions through the horizon. Use a cable release or remote trigger while working on a tripod. Since the mirror is locked up in “Live view” vibration is usually eliminated.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |